A Scorching Sun and the Fullest Moon - WHITEFISH NARROWS (LAKE OF THE WOODS) - Day Fifty Eight

After our many beach filled days we crossed into the north part of the lake where the water has less algae and the shores are more rocky. At the bridge of land between the two sections of lake there is only about 10m of land separating the water, but we did not have to portage. No, we got to use the boat cart. Oh boy...

The boat cart was a rusty track with a boat rack on it that can be moved with a large wheel attached to a winch. If not for the more recent looking MNR signs, it looked like the last time the cart was used was the 1980's. Despite the excruciatingly slow progress and the ache in our arms from its use, Erik was determined to see it through. He kept telling me this was "a good decision" while the boat moved inch by inch and the storm clouds rolled in at a faster pace. Erik would like to add that once we got the cart to the other side of the track, the wheels loosened up and the way back with the boat was much easier.

The next day brought us through some island hopping to arrive at a campsite offering much needed shade beneath towering red pines. Despite seeing nothing but lake and trees all day, with the odd cottage, we found ourselves with five bars or service. A very strange feeling in such a natural setting. As we unloaded the boat, we were stepping among the crayfish who darted off from our feet. The entire rocky edge of the site was covered in them and we marvelled at their number and the speed they shoot backwards when something draws near.

Having faced little of the winds and storms we had come to expect, we now have time on our hands to relax before Kenora. We have taken long afternoon naps swaying in the hammock. Erik has been hard at work on his wood carving of an eagle. I have been hiding in the shade to nurse my sunburns. We have begun to experiment with food and combine meals as we grow tired of the menu we loop through. We do our nightly sets of squats to make up for the lack of portaging. We gorge on the chocolate and candies we have hoarded all summer, knowing there are only so many days left where our bodies will be happy with so much sugar.

Now as we write this, the fire crackles behind us, the dishes sit unwashed beside us, the mosquitoes are congregating just above us, the water is lapping the shore in front of us, and above, rises the moon. And it is enormous. It is yellow and perfectly round and the dark patches stand out like looking through a telescope. I feel like I should be able to grab it. So goodnight moon and goodnight all you.