Goodbye Animikii - GRAND PORTAGE MARINA Day 9

Yesterday the seemingly oceanic swells on Superior gave way to glass and we made our way along the final 26 kilometres of the Animikii stretch under sunny skies. It was a picture perfect final day on the lake. We paddled still waters across the Canada-US border where birds were flocking from the islands markings the international boundary. The flat lake allowed us to cross large bays, but there was one landmark we didn't want to miss along the shore. We cut to land in search of the Little SpiritTree.

The tree we had spotted from a distance ended up being a baby Christmas tree, but when I asked Erik if he saw the special tree yet he reminded me "of course Brynley, they are all special."

He's right, but we were still looking for this one special tree, this ancient little cedar tree that has been integral to the local Ojibwe culture for over the past 500 years. We did see it farther along Hat point and were lucky to be able to paddle up right next to the tree. We did not get out on shore or take pictures (though you can google 'little spirit tree Grand Portage to see what we're talking about) because non-native people need to be escorted by a native guide to this sacred spot on land. The Little Spirit Tree grew straight out of rock with its roots creeping deep into the cracks beneath it. Its gnarled and twisted trunk looked liked dried up drift wood and yet there was a large bush of green cedar leaves above. We were astounded that anything could live in such an exposed and harsh environment, let alone survive 500 years of storms and pounding from Lake Superior. After much quiet admiration, we moved on, around the point from which we could glimpse the Grand Portage.

The next morning Path of the Paddle Chair, Ed Shields, was coming to pick up anything we wanted to shed before the infamous Grand Portage so that we could do the portage in one go. It's more than a little stressful deciding what to give up and what to carry for 14km. How little could we survive on for five days knowing that we have to haul it with our canoe across 14km of land? Erik said no to my 500 page book, I said no to his rod and lures. We turned down desserts but kept our snacks.

We spent the rest of our time exploring the buildings in the fur trade depot - examining the birch bark canoes, animal pelts, and historical reenactments on display.